Switzerland
Besides Rome, without a doubt Switzerland was my favorite place in Europe. Maybe it was just the particular place we went, but it was like heaven on earth. When I was doing research for this trip, the quote going around about Gimmelwald was: “If I die and can’t go to heaven, send me to Gimmelwald.” It’s so true, it is the most beautiful place on the face of the earth.
Phil and the other guys were interested in going but for some reason Rob and Paul didn’t go until we convincent them it was worth it (after we wen’t). So it was me, Phil and John Feeley who wanted to come bungy jumping with me. It was looking like it was going to be pretty bad weather with snow or more likely rain, but we risked going anyways. We got on the train Thursday night and arrive passed through Zurich in the early morning where we took a little break and looked at some chocolate shops for about a half hour. Each little piece in this particular place was about a centimeter in size and cost about two to three Euro (3-4$) Feeley got some, apparently worth it. So then we got back on the train and headed for Interlaken, the last city at the base of the mountains (when I say the base of the mountains, I mean the famous peaks of the Swiss alps–Eiger, Jungfrau, and Schilthorn).
We arrived and I had scheduled for that day our bungee jump. We went around Interlaken exploring and looking for a Mass time for Sunday. No luck, except in Interlaken (far from where we would be staying in Gimmelwald). We arrived just in time and waited for about 20min until the AlpinCraft van came to pick us up to go to the jump. Phil decided not to come and to just go to the hostel because the guy driving wanted to charge him to come along for the ride and watch us. So Feeley and I hopped in and the guy drove around the rest of Interlaken picking up other customers who had signed up (two indians never showed and he flipped out and enraged, took advantage of the lax swiss road regulations). Driving towards the base of the alps and seeing the peaks shoot up in front of you like walls sets something off in a man, it makes him want to climb and conquer. Adrenaline began rushing just at the sight, not to mention the dry mouth from being about to jump 280 ft. freefall. We climbed up the valley (not Lauterbrunnen, the other one to the West) toward the base of Eiger on a road that curved in between the increasingly high mountains, the tops of whose I never saw in the van. There were classic swiss looking houses with dairy cows everywhere. The guys in the back of the van were opening beer for every to make the jump a little easier–but Feeley and I were man enough already. Now at the base of a huge peak, the gruff driver told everyone to cross their fingers because he was gonig into first gear but many times before the van has failed going up this particular hill and that we might have to get out and push. It worked out and we got to the top–thats when we found out that the guy accidently forgot to tell us that bungee jumping wasn’t available this particular day….yea right…I’m pretty sure he forgot to tell us, especially since now we had the option of either staying, walking back down, or going through with whatever treat he might have in store. Turns out, what was going on was Canyon swinging, which many people claim is even more terrifying than a B-Jump. We approached the jump area which was a huge canyon going up the base of Eiger which was approxamately 280 ft deep with spiked rocks at the bottom. There is a cable that stretches across the canyon and a thin line from that which is attached to….you. After deliberating with Feeley about whether we wanted to wait and find another way to do the bungee, we both agreed that Canyon swinging is where its at today. After a liability waiver that read something like “I admit that I have lost my mind and I am doing something very stupid that I hold no one accounable for not even AlpinCraft who pressured me into this etc etc…) then swiping the credit card, we both got harnessed up.
I was second in line and Feeley said I jumped without a second hesitation but it felt like I was standing there for about 5 minutes on the thinly contructed see through metal platform looking straight down. When the guide let me hold the rope, and let go, I felt a strong tug on my waist from the weight of the rope that I wondered if it would pull me off the platform. At this point I was like ‘you only live one and tried letting go of the rope and running off the platform. At first I thought, this isn’t so bad, I’m just falling…how many times have I done this before and put myself in a relaxed position, then my stomach relized I was that I’m still falling and I felt like my stomach turned inside out and was coming up, fire shot though all my limbs and then I realized I was still falling, and still falling and within a dozen feet from very sharp rocks. Finally a refreshing new pain hit me in the way I was harnessed down below… At this point I was flying forward at 110 km/hr through the canyon and came within feet of the rock wall on the other side. After being lowered down and my line being caught with a pole I was finally let off the rope and had the pleasure of seeing everyone elses faces as they finished. The last person to go stood there for about 30 minutes which I didn’t appreciate and finally, after paying all that money decided she couldn’t do it and we headed back to the van.
We were lucky because the man in the van was able to take us around the other side partway up our valley (the famous Lauterbrunnen valley) and let us off in Lauterbrunnen. I still haven’t figured out why the valley is named the way it is… Anyways, Feeley and I took a bus further up the valley which took us to a cable car which took us thousands of feet up to one of the last towns, shall we say encampments before isolation, Gimmelwald, which consists of about two dozen people and a Mountain Hostel, which reminds me of the classic picture of a log cabin (I love this place.) We walk in the hostel and see Phil with a big smile on his face enjoying a nice Dunkel with the other friendly visitors. Soon Feeley and I were unpacked and doing the same with a giant Pizza. After some merriment with the other folk we headed for the outdoor, woodfired, wooden barrel style hot tub, in which one could contemplate life with a liter of beer, with half of your body being refreshed by brisk 10 degree air and the greater part being submerged in penetrating warmth, in front of the most spectacular mountains in the world. You also meet interesting people in this close proximity. We had some celebratory cloves as talked about life and how this is only happening once–so true and I wish I could go back. A few hours later we decided it was time to get out and made the plan to tackle Schilthorn in the morning (the highest climbable peak in the alps not requiring significant ice climbing equipment). Then we passed out in a room with about 30 other friendly people.
We wake up around 5:30 and prepare the boots and lunch etc. After breakfast, in casual conversation, the hostel owner recommends that we not commit suicide by trying to climb the mountain today, especially since it snowed a foot in Gimmelwald, meaning 5-6 feet on top. With my encouragement I will admit, the other guys wanted to try it anyways, after all how bad could it be.
We left the hostel with a group of other guys who were there that weekend, among them Sofio and Pete etc. So after bundling up, we step outside into a white wonderland of pouring snow. We needed to first get to Murren, which is a small villiage a little further up the hill which is where the other group was going, so we sort of followed them. The visibility was about 20 feet, due to the snow and fog–sort of a dissopointment because of the the scenery we knew we were missing. We continued up the hill and began to sweat and finally reached Murren. I realized that my outer clothers were not going to hold up because they were getting so wet because of the thick snow, so I went to look for a jacket, especially since we were going to conquer this mountain, I hoped. I finally found the cheapest sufficient jacket in the store 160 franks (ouch) and walked out. The other guys bought some souveniers from a local store also. So at this point we decided to trek on into the wild; this was the last town. Both people that we bought stuff from in the stores told us there is no way we will make it up to the top without dying because at some points the trail get to be about 2 feet wide going up the mountain with a four thousand foot drop on one side, and at this time there would be ice and snow all over. We were up for it. So we got about 400 yards up the mountain before we decided to be intelligent and accept our inadequacy. So at this point we decided to go back to the hostel and eat our lunch. So we hiked back down and did just that. I had some Lowenbrau, Monzeralla cheese and sweet bread. Then we saw everyone else and they recommended the ‘Challenge course’. We decided to do it, hiked up to Murren again and after a confusing trip looking for the harnesses, we found them at the same store where I bought the coat, and headed to the beginning of the course.
The course was spectacular, literally. The harness has two carribeaners which attach to a wire that you follow the entire way clipping in and out at each wire support. At first the course went down the hill quite steeply and then opened up in the most beautiful scenery of the Lauderbrunnen valley I have ever seen. It was ridiculous the altitude and distance amongst the mountains which could be seen, especially to the bottom. Then I realized where the next part of the course was: continueing, not on top of the cliff or along a ledge, but literally on the side of the cliff, supported by thin rebar pegs for your feet; mind you this day had not had the best winter weather conditions. We press forward with gallons of adrenaline being shot into the bloodsteam eachtime we had to clip in and out. We were hanging on a cliff looking below our feet at 3000 feet plus. Not after a short time that part of the course was over and we continued going down the mountain at a still steep rate but next was a little wire bridge to cross over but it was locked so we had to go to a different part to get across the cravass. I did an upsidedown James bond move of some sort. Then we continued along with this amazing view. Eventually we reached and serious bridge, which was straight out of Indiana Jones. After bit of yodeling in the Canyon, Phil was the first to cross–but only after about 15 minutes of shuffling very slowly so as not to disrupt the bridge and fall thousands of feet to our deaths (if our ropes broke). The bridge is supported by wire, with no guide rails and is only a one foot wide piece of metal going for 400 feet. Finally it was my turn and I began on the bridge just as everyone else except that when I was finished I felt like it took me twice as long as everyone else, but the other guys said I moved a lot faster…psych majors – what does this mean? At this point the course was over and we needed to book it back to the hostel to change and get ready to find a Mass time. We knew there was a Church in Murren, but only Mass once a month. We were going to chance it and go to the one in Murren hoping for Mass and if that didn’t work we would have to wake up at 4am the next morning to go down to Interlaken.
After a quick stop at the hostel and slight change of clothes we began booking it up the hill again to Murren reached the Church and saw no cars and heard no sounds coming from it. We went inside and Mass was going on! Thank God! We came in and the locals looked at us strangely but we were ok with that. I love going to German Mass especially in the middle of the Alps. After Mass we returned our harnesses and walked around in the town for a few minutes. Here the other guys mentioned that at this point they had had enough for the day and wanted to go back to the hostel and make some dinner, have a beer and sit in the hot tub. I disagreed and suggested going up as far as we could up Schilthorn since the snow had began to melt. So resolving the disagreement in a masculine manner, they did what they wanted to do and I did what I wanted to do and began climbing, starting out very close to the point where we had turned around earlier that morning.
At first I was worried that it would be dangerous going on icy paths by myself but once I began to see the beautiful scenery and the reward in the climb, nothing would change my mind. I reached a certain height on top of a huge field in between two smaller peaks which overlooked huge farms and dairy fields. You could hear the clanging of cow bells in the distance and see the lights in the scarce small swiss farmhouses illumine. I considered stopping here but wanted to just get to the next peak which I could lay my eyes on (this is always the case for me until I get to the top–just one more peak, then I’ll turn around). And that was the deliberation I did for the next half hour, intermittedly turning to see the now visible between the fog ice capped alpine peaks. While night crept closer I experience the most surreal phenomenon in my life. For the first time in my life I felt like I was in the highest most beautiful place, and as the only one on earth, I thought that I could almost reach up and touch God in the sky. I wondered at the bright orange glow on the top of the peaks of the mountains and considered that I might just be in a dream or fantasy land. Was I actually here in the alps, by myself beholding one of the peaks of God’s creation. Undoubtedly I was, because I pinched myself and the sight, sounds and wonder remained. After being tempted to turn back becuase of the impending darkness, I turned my back again to Murren and continue up the mountain on the switchbacks. One, Two, Three—only four more until I am at that next point. I looked behind me again and Jungfrau (the highest peak in the alps) was no longer glowing orange but rather, the very finest part of the tip of the peak was slightly golden. I looked upward at the stars, which are in no way possible to capture with a camera. I felt like I was standing on the edge of space and breathing the cleanest air one earth. I just can’t describe how invigorating this was. After renouncing my reason and my stomach, telling me to turn back since it was nearly completely dark and eight o’clock, I continued my steady march up the mountian. All of a sudden I heard something in the distance and barely saw two “things” about 1000 yards away running away from me. I wasn’t able to identify them but my guess is that they were a wild dog or cat of some sort. At this point I took one last look behind me and decided since I was not nearly even a third of the way up Schilthorn, it would have to wait for a later time in my life. I reluctantly took my first step down the mountain and began what started as a solo trip down the mountain, until I began to speak with God for the rest of the trip back. I hadn’t remember speaking so casually and earnestly with him since I had left the Legionary seminary. But I remember talking nearly the whole walk back to the hostel.
I arrived at a very cheery environment spinning with stories of the day, pizza, pasta and beer. John and Phil were in the corner with a big bowl of Spagetti, and I joined them for the rest of dinner- a very full and satisfying one. After this we got in the hot tub again and chilled there for a few hours. With some beer and clove cigarettes we discussed the meaning of life and the fact that we would never be in that place and time again ever with the same people and have the same fun we did. Time passes, doesn’t return and is only remembered in eternity. We met a woman from Colorado who was a school teacher in Munich and always goes to Octoberfest. After a long day, but relaxing night, we decided to turn in since we still needed to get up at 5 to make the train. We got up early in the morning and headed down the cable car, which took us to a bus which took us to the city which we walked though to the train station, passing once more the James Bond store with Swiss army knives in the windows and all through the streets.
After getting on our train we were set for the train ride back and waited to arrive in Vienna to Gaming. As we did every weekend the walk back from the Keinberg-Gaming train station is about 45 minutes and once we were back, at least for myself I was excited to konk out and take a nice long nap, which turned into an all nighter nap.